Friday 21 June 2013

14a. Insider's Basel

AM alone in Basel but not alone at all because of contacts I have here through friends.
One is Roz's daughter, Lauren, with whom I meet up twice. Here are a couple of photos taken at our second meeting for brekkie at my hotel. We do know each other already from meeting in Melbourne and we have a lovely rapport.



Another lovely contact I have is my friend Jenny's introduction to me of her alma mater Elizabeth. Elizabeth and I agree that we hit it off right away during our introductory phone call. We emailed one another photos of ourselves so that we'd recognise each other when we met for the first time in my hotel foyer.
Elizabeth and I wander around old Basel to the Lohnhof where we picnic on my smuggled brekkie takings, a daily arrangement I have for my lunches.

        Elizabeth under the Lohnhof arch
          Interior of Lohnhof
 
  
      In 32 degree heat and high humidity, Basel tolerates locals cooling off in the fountains! 

   Basel's imposing Medieval Town Hall 

Elizabeth is a prolific novelist who gives me a gift of a copy of one of her novels,  A Perfect Match, a semi-autobiographical account of an Australian who comes to live in Basel where she works, searches for true love and finds it! When I ask Elizabeth if she has any regrets about choosing Basel over Melbourne as a place to spend her adult life she answers: This is where I was to meet the love of my life.

I am reading the book up in the air as I fly home to Melbourne. It's a delightful read, well-written such that I can barely put it down to eat, sleep, blog and be interrupted by on-flight announcements. Elizabeth Karlhuber recounts her protagonist's fascinating encounters weaving information about life in Basel and Switzerland generally, in regard to values, habits, festivals, politics, economics, languages, the effects of being embraced by French and German borders, what it's like being a foreigner and more.

    A Perfect Match by Elizabeth Karlhuber

Thursday 20 June 2013

15. Hamsas, Herzl and stunning Synagogue

  Interior of dome in Basel's Synagogue
            
Hamsa exhibition, Jewish Museum
      A Hamsa exhibition and the history of Herzl's Zionist Congress in Basel draw me to visit the Jewish Museum in Basel despite walking in 33 degrees to find it. If you know my aversion to the heat, you'll know my dedication to this task!
    Everything is labelled in German; there's no English nor any other language.

   Chamsa-Hand mit Psalm. Nordafrica oder Näher Orsten 19/20 Jh




 Wow, this ancient amulet necklace is just my taste!

   Herzl and the Zionist Congress

  Herzl an der Rheinbrücke zu Basel um 1900

In 1897 Theodor Herzl's idea for a Jewish National Assembly had its fruition in the first Zionist Congress which took place in Basel. The decision to create an official and legal home for the Jewish people in Palestine was postulated. Herzl took part in six congresses, five of which were organised in Basel.

The portrait above of Theodor Herzl, originally a photograph, was probably taken at the fifth congress ( December 1901) on the balcony of his room in the Hotel Drei Könige (Three Kings) in Basel against the background of the old Mittlere Brücke on the Rhine. The photo is world famous and is still used nowadays as a symbol of Zionism. Herzl does not look on the Rhine, but, in front of the rising sun, on immigrants to the Holy Land.

           Zionistencongress
         Basel, 29,30,31 August, 1897
     Photos of the participants of the Congress

     It's a small, modest museum, three minutes walk from the shule.








       An original annotated sketch of the Kabbalah Tree of Life that we refer to in our Jewish Meditation sessions at Temple Beth Israel, Reform Synagogue led by Rabbi Fred Morgan (Shalom Eastern Europe Tour featured in this blog)

In the courtyard entrance to the Basel Jewish Museum are these gravestones dating back to the 13th century.


     Jewish gravestone dated 1293

     
After the Museum I visit the Basel Synagogue. The guard welcomes and shows me inside, leaving me to enjoy the shule on my own.
When I step inside, it's formidable and takes my breath away.
    Congregation numbers 200 families, 1000 people.

      You can see the wallpaper tastefully decorating the synagogue.

       Argau Synagogues
Two synagogues in Argau: one, Synagogue in Endigen, Argau, built in 1852. The Jewish community in Argau dates back to the Middle Ages. The second, below, is the Synagogue in Lengnau, Argau, built in 1845. Both have been renovated in the 1980s.
These I will visit next time I'm here. Hadn't known about them till my visit to the Jewish Museum in Basel.
        
            Au revoir, שלום, Basel

      Are these Chabadniks losing faith in The Eternal One's protection as we speed through a tunnel in between terminals at Zurich airport?
















    


Sunday 16 June 2013

14. Last day of ArtBasel, ferries and Tinguely Museum

  Star of David on the church

     my favourite knitted ferry and jetty

     
   
        die Münster

             sweet swiss shutters

      Alexey Firsov The Camomiles 2012
Moscau ( Moscow) € 50,000 sold

                 Tinguely Museum


   
Jean Tinguely with Meta-Matic No. 17 in front of the Eiffel Tower, Paris, 1959

"The wheel: 'where it all starts' - the mobility, the folly, the velocity, the mass production."
1989

Jean Tinguely, Niki de Saint Phalle, and Per Olof Ultvedt during construction of Hon at the Moderna Museet, Stockholm, 1966

  The exhibition Jean Tinguely at the Galerie Gimpel & Hanover in Zurich, 1966


        As soon as I touch junk- it's magic!

        Jean Tinguely Trois points blancs (1955) 

Jean Tinguely Élément Détache I (1954)

    Found some fun creative toys to bring back home for Joshua, Sammy and Micah.

    Jean Tinguely Pit Stop (1984)

    Modell, mit Niki de Saint Phalle Le Cyclop - La Tête (1970)

    Zilvinas Kempinas  Ballroom 2010 - 2013

     
 Jean Tinguely Mengele Totentanz Danse Macabre Dance of Death (1987)

     Jean Tinguely grosse Meta-Maxi-Maxi-Utopia (1987   

Crash bang thump whirl clang squeak zing ping clash Tinguely's museum is a cacophony of sounds that whirling turning wheeling junk makes when its electric wires activate it.




    Zilvinas Kempinas Slash 2013
    Magnetic tape, wood, iron

      Zilvinas Kempinas Fountain 2011
       magnetic tape, fan, stainless steel

    Zilvinas Kempinas Parallels 2007/2013
  magnetic tape, wood, iron

   Walking home along the Rhein River with the cyclists, walkers, lovers, children, mothers with babes in prams, no that was a father.

       In Solitude Park