Imagine time-travelling to Prague 500 years ago and you have Český Krumlov (sounds like a cake, quipped Bert when we told him we were going there). And it was a cake ! Sweet and well-preserved with candied terra-cotta roofs. There I crossed through the quaint, treed, medieval village to find the synagogue that survived the war and that stayed open for me after closing time, only because no-one was there and I got to spend a privileged, intimate hour reading the displays about the cultured Jewish family that built it and had developed around it a philanthropic, educated community, only to be deported to Terezin.
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